Day Trip to Angers

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Harold really enjoys taking the train places. This morning, we woke him up rather early (7am) to catch a train to Angers for a day trip, It’s about a 40 minute trek back towards Paris from Nantes. The train we boarded was running late (unusual and due to rain)… It was the fast train to Paris, and when the announcement came over the speaker, the whole train groaned (except us because we were slow in understanding what was being said). A nice Woman explained that there was a slow train to Angers, and we needed to get change trains.

We arrived late into Angers with rainy skies but smiles. We bought a day pass that allowed us to see the major attractions. We visited the art museum, the museum of David of Angers (sculptor extroidinaire) and the Chateau D’Angers. All three were rather amazing. The Chateau was the birthplace of Roi Rene… Beloved French monarch of Angers & Provence. He brought arts and viniculture to the area… And apparently he was an all around great guy.

Also at the castle, is the Apocalypse Tapestry… An amazing tapestry woven around 1382. What an incredible work of art! We had to buy a book… It was too much to take in at once! It was rather dark in the viewing room and Harold couldn’t see very well… He only has the one eye.

Lunch at the Musee des Beaux Arts… Cafe at St. Martin Cafe… Harold slept on the train home… Tired wittle stufftie. The day wore us out, too!

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It’s easy being in green Nantes!

Judy:
Harold is loving Nantes! Except for the evening rainstorm that is happening right now outside our window, the weather has been lovely; warm enough to seek shade for an afternoon aperitif, cool enough to be comfortable for stuffties accustomed to Monterey summers.
Nantes is an ancient city, defended by the locals when Julius Ceasar’s troops showed up in the olden days. Of course, Caesar won, and the city became one of the most important import/export towns for hundreds of years. Jules Verne, father of all science fiction, was born here. The city’s cathedrals and ancient stone walls tell of this long and storied history, while its current development speaks to something else: sustainability.
Nantes has been awarded the International Green City award for 2013. Because of its dedication to public transport, in the form of rental bicycles, buses and trams, and even taxi- boats, it has lowered its emissions to near record levels for a European city. The city center is very tightly packed and walk able, with many buildings being multi-use, residential and business.
In many ways, Nantes feels like Portland, Oregon. It is an important shipping port that’s not actually on the ocean ( the river Loire is the connection); it is dedicated to using sustainable energy sources. Local produce is wonderful and featured in most of the restaurants, as well as sold for low prices in the markets. Bioswales, which we first saw in Portland, are here in a big way; along the Erdre River, which partly flows through tunnels now, are willow branch structures and plantings designed to filter street run-off before it goes to the river.
Although there aren’t many other stuffties here (Harold keeps his eyes open, you can bet!) it still is a very pleasant place. Harold and his people are having a sweet old time.

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Prezzie for Harold

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So Nantes has BD shops & bookstores. And There happens to be a conveniently located bookstore steps away from the apartment here with an impressive bd section. Also too, a superb comics shop, Story BD is not far either… I have discovered Penelope Bagieu… I knew Harold would like her work, and this one is more his size.

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Harold visits a castle…

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Chateau des ducs de Bretagne… Or the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany. Harold was impressed.

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Jour deux

Brig continues… I slept well for plane travel… I awoke with a question “did you order the special breakfast?” (In a French accent). I did of course (low salt meal), but I responded ”
Did I?” I was still asleep. I’m not used to having chicken in the morning… But this was what I got… Along with bread.

I got to conversing with my steward on the plane, Matthew. He is an artist,too… A collage / painter… And he showed me some of his work on his phone. Having brought along a book of Squid Row, I gave him a copy… he seemed to like it… He did a sweet little cartoon on a box of Godiva chocolate wishing me good travels. It was a nice way to start the trip.

Customs was a massive line of weary travelers. Apparently, the police de frontiers were striking… And so there were few border police available to check passports. Harold hardly looks suspicious… And got in fine… Even without a passport… I guess stuffties are pretty harmless.

Train travel followed our luggage retrieval… But not before a cup of cafe and pastries (we’re in France after all!). Judy got a beignet chocolat and I sampled. Then it was onto a fast tren a Le Mans with a layover long enough for dinner and then onto Nantes.

The tren was comfortable and clean, and full. I really like train travel… Fast, expedient and I can sit and draw or watch the landscape. There were fields of wheat, lots of cows and modern windmills (les moulins). In Le Mans, we ate at a place called Cafe Parisien… A bar right across from the station. I had a salade Nicoise and Pelligrino. Judy & Nelson shared a carafe de vin rouge, Cote du Rhone… To toast our travels. Harold only sipped at the wine… He wanted to make sure he stayed sober for the rest of our train ride.

We arrived in Nantes… At about 8:15. Our vacation rental person failed to meet us at the apartment and we could not contact her… I noticed on our taxi ride that we passed a Hotel Mercure … We will be staying at one in I believe La Rochelle,… So we checked ourselves in there. It was comfy and right near our rental, so when we did finally get in contact, J&N were able to meet and get keys etc.

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The long (jour)ney…

Brig: I actually slept on the plane… It was a two legged plane trip… Leg one: LA from Monterey. Leg two: LA to Charles De Gaul, France. (There were then other legs… By les trens… ) but first things first… Our cab did not show. Seven fifteen… Seven twenty-five… Seven thirty-five… Call different cab company. Hwy 68… A bit congested… Exit cab when boarding should start… Line to check luggage… I don’t like hearing my name over the PA… Yes, we’re coming.

Harold remains cool the whole time… He’s like that… Mr. Positive.

The A380 is the super ridiculously large plane that flies via Air France… Apparently, it is nicknamed Chuck… Why Chuck? I’m guessing because it goes to Charles De Gaul… Anyhow… We had this five hour-ish layover before we boarded Chuck…. The boarding process includes multiple gates, lots of French & English dubbing, and hoards of passengers in lines. It wasn’t chaotic but It seemed a little on the “you guys need to work on this a little more” side. But maybe it was just me being in the LA airport for a long time.

Inside the plane… Different story… Well, at least in Sky Priority. We sat three across in the middle seats, which, by the way, recline with a foot rest… Like a lazy boy. Talk about comfy seating… The plane is fairly new … So there’s still that new plane smell hanging in the air. There were blankets… Pillows… Headsets… Water… All that was missing was a mint on the pillow… Well, that came later.

The plane food… Felt both like plane food and French food… We got a menu with choices which included smoked duck & ham. They were served in the little airplane food containers. And there were courses…Avec bread & wine, of course… A dessert and cognac or pear liqueur, in bottles that were Harold-sized… Then came the chocolate. I love the French. Harold saved his for later. Cognac & chocolate pour our little stufftie.

After all the food… And a little drawing time, it was time for shut eye… Sleeping on planes is usually a difficult chore. Harold and I didn’t have any trouble. Pas problem.

Which is where I have to leave it… As I am exhausted and the last one up after all the legs of today’s trip.
The trek continues.

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Packing for Harold

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So, what does the well dressed stufftie need to pack for a month on the road?

Since our destination is France, the beret, of course. Before visiting France, I had imagined the beret to be a caricature of France, like a cowboy hat has become caricature of America. But I was wrong. French men and women of many ages and social positions wear berets. So, the beret it is.

Several stylish scarves, of course, worn tied in fluffy Parisian style. They make the statement that you are the stufftie to be seen with.

For this trip, I think we can leave the Hawaiian shirt at home, as well as the Mickey Mouse hat and light-up ears….no use being the overt American.

But what about the fez? It is stylish, to be sure, and stands out in any crowd. It makes you welcome at any convention. But there are political overtones. Harold suggests that we pack it, just to be on the safe side, and use it when and if we feel the time if right.

Smart old Harold.

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A Well-Traveled Stufftie

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Harold is a heckuva good travel companion… 

He doesn’t complain much…  He weighs next to nuthin’ and he is rather friendly. When we last visited England & France, Harold saw London, Paris & Provence backwards… I imagine that this is a little frustrating… But like I said, Harold doesn’t complain much. This time around, I have a slightly different contraption for the backpack here. It’s a clip that’ll make grabbing Harold for a photo-taking opportunity much easier. Still, he will get to see Western France from the same point of view… Backwards.

 

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The Art of Harold

Harold in art...

Lapin Agile… or is it, Harold Agile?

party time…

L’heure est á la fete… the time is at the celebration…

Harold is often a subject in my painting/art. He’s a quiet fellow and an excellent model (Randie, with the blonde hair, uses Harold’s modeling services rather frequently as well).

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A sketch card I did… to Bunny, Karen Lesney’s stufftie pal.

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A sketch I did for an issue of Art-o-rama a while back.

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To The City

We took Harold to The City (that’s what San Francisco-ans like to call their place of

Harold at CAM's Door

Harold at CAM’s Door

home-age)… we had some business to do. I had the Cartoon Art Museum to see and Judy and Nelson had some wine to drink at The Zin Fest (at the Concourse). Granted, Harold would’ve been happy to go to either venue (he’s a bit of a lush), but I managed to persuade him to see the almost-ending SketchTravel exhibition at CAM. 

IMG_2653Harold & I were pretty impressed with not just the SketchTravel show, but the ParaNorman exhibit as well! The former show displayed reproductions of a sketchbook passed hand to hand to amazing artists all over the world. The result was amazing illustrations by over 70 artists… and the completed book was auctioned off for charity (building libraries around the world).

The ParaNorman exhibit was a surprise. Neither of us had seen it… but like the Coraline exhibition, (a few years ago… ALSO at CAM), it made me want to see the movie. Netflix, baby. Harold sat and looked at the character sketches for a long time and marveled at the 3-D puppet creations and actual sets, too…. while I took photos.

It was a wonderful trip… we took the train up from Palo Alto… having parked and eaten lunch at The Counter. I dislike driving in The City as it makes me nervous… (probably even more so than driving in LA). Harold loves the train and we kept telling him that we’d be taking many trains when we get to France in July. He nearly squealed!

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I left my big heart at CAM

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Harold enjoying the SketchTravel show…

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